I didn’t get a chance to write yesterday (Sunday, May 19th), because we were literally going, going, going from the time we got up! That’s not usually how I like to roll with 3 kids, but it’s how it turned out, and we were tired, but fine.
We started out the day going to our old church, Grace Church, in a local student building in the 7th district near the Westbahnhof. It’s an international church, and the pastor who married us was guest preaching there. Even though it was a smaller congregation than I had remembered when I was there, there was still a heart there that I know I have missed since we moved. The church is comprised of Filipinos, Nigerians, Koreans, Austrians and every other nationality in between. I think that’s what makes it so special. There’s a feeling that everyone is there for the same reason and coming together, regardless of culture or social status.
After church, we spoke with a few old friends and traveled from there to a local Heuriger, Fuhrgassl Huber, where my husband I were married to meet up with some friends for lunch. The atmosphere in the 19th district of Vienna called Grinzing has nothing to be compared to. It is lush and beautiful, quaint and cozy, clean and serene and there is wine and amazing food waiting for you at every other door. Yesterday, we enjoyed Backhendl (fried chicken), Schnitzel and Erdaepfelsalat with white wine and grape juice spritzers. It was pure heaven! For dessert, the kids ordered a cream puff roll and Topfenstrudel, which is like cheesecake with a strudel dough.
After that, we wanted to go back to our apartment and freshen up, but we realized we had no time. We were invited to my friend Claudia’s for dinner, and I knew we’d be late if we ventured back to the apartment. Trying to explain to my kids that we can’t just “run by” our house and rest a bit was tough. They are used to us being able to make a quick pitstop and head back out, but when you’re apartment is outside of the main part of town, this just isn’t possible.
Before we went to my friend’s house, we went into the city center, the 1st district of Vienna, to hear my friend/pastor, Stefan preach in the streets. He does this with an organization, and it’s fascinating to watch. I was so happy to witness it live!
As we walked up Burggasse, past the Kunsthistorisches Museum and Museumsquartier into the 7th district to my friend’s house, I was instantly taken back to the first year I lived in Vienna in 2001. I had an apartment in the 7th district on Neustiftgasse, just one street over, and I used to have to walk to my apartment, past all of these national monuments, after meeting with friends or going for a vocal coaching. Many times, it was freezing cold, and many nights I felt so alone and vulnerable on that trek, but it was exhilarating to walk that same path I walked and relive it in a new light, with my 3 sweet kiddos!
As we walked by my favorite local hangouts in Spittelberg, I was enraptured by the sights and smells of I Ragazzi, Amerlingsbeisl and of course, Plutzerbraeu. The feeling of Neubau is one that I vividly remember. As a foreigner living alone, I must say that I felt intimidated and many times a bit insecure, sure, but also very safe and secure in this quiet, artists’ district. It is truly my favorite district of Vienna for so many reasons.
- It has so many beautiful buildings that are considered the standard Viennese Altbau (old buildings) that have retained their charm for hundreds of years.
- It houses the Leopold collection in the Museumsquartier and the works of Klimt and Schiele, and it tends to be the most modern and progressive part of Vienna with new, trendy restaurants and galleries.
- It sits directly behind the Volkstheater and is home to the large shopping district of Mariahilferstrasse.
At my friend’s apartment, we enjoyed wonderful champagne, zucchini cream soup, roasted chicken and cooked potatoes. For dessert, we enjoyed Eis (ice cream) from Gelateria La Romana on Neustiftgasse and pastries from L. Heiner on Kaertnerstrasse. Needless to say, we were STUFFED!! One of Claudia’s and my traditions when we see each other is having a shot (or 2) of Eierlikör after dessert, which is basically a strong eggnog in a bottle. And for some reason, she and I always giggle when we take a sip! This has gone on for years.
When the kids and I finally left Claudia’s, it was well past our bedtime. But we were able to walk down the well-lit Burggasse and catch our subway to Schottentor where we hopped on the 44 to head back to our apartment. It took us less than 15 minutes total.
As tired as we were, this day was full of so much love and friendship. I loved spending the time with each and every person we saw and reconnect again.
Outside of the amazing scenery and food, any city, even one as beautiful as Vienna, is empty without being around those we love. I am so fortunate to have my children with me this time, and I am reminded that I did not always walk these streets with companions like them. I walked them alone. But the people that I came to know after what seemed like an eternity of loneliness have stayed with me and continue to be a beacon of light in this incredible place!
xo,
Amy
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